[New post] Exploring ‘Little Iceland’ – A Journey Around The Snaefellsnes Peninsula (Part Two)
devongeography posted: " This is the second of a two-blog series describing the scenery of the Snaefellsnes peninsula in west Iceland. The opening blog covered the main sites to be found along the south coast of the peninsula as far as Snaefellsjokull, while this second blog co" Devon Geography
This is the second of a two-blog series describing the scenery of the Snaefellsnes peninsula in west Iceland. The opening blog covered the main sites to be found along the south coast of the peninsula as far as Snaefellsjokull, while this second blog continues the journey around the Snaefellsjokull volcano and then along the north coast of the peninsula.
Just ten minutes from Arnastapi and next to the R574 road is the entrance to the Vatnshellir lava tunnel, in the 8,000 years-old lava field of Purkholahraun. Said to be one of Iceland's oldest lava tunnels, it stretches for some 200 metres on different levels below ground to a depth of 35 metres. It is accessed via two vertical metal spiral staircases, and visitors can enjoy torch-lit views of the lava features, including lava stalactites and stalagmites unique to this location.
Inside the lava tunnel. Image - Paul Berry
Spiral staircase giving access to lower levels in the lava tunnel. Image - Paul Berry
A convenient car park provides access to view the sea stacks of Londrangar. A surfaced path leads to a couple of viewing platforms on the clifftop, and from here, the stacks have the appearance of a castle that has emerged from the ocean water. There are two distinct pillars, all that remains from an ancient crater, the tallest at 75 metres is called the 'Christian Pillar', while the lower of the pair is known as the 'Heathen Pillar'. The viewing platforms also allow excellent close-up views of the colonies of sea birds that nest on the vertical cliffs here. Black guillemots huddle together on narrow ledges, while the raucous cries of Kittiwakes fill the air. There is an excellent visitor centre at nearby Malarrif, next to the huge concrete structure of the Malarrifsviti lighthouse. It is possible to walk (30 minutes) from here along the clifftop to the viewing platforms at Londrangar.
Londrangar stacks. Image - Paul Berry
Londrangar stacks with Malarrif lighthouse in the background. Image - Paul Berry
Snaefellsjokull from the car park at Londrangar. Image - Paul Berry
Lighthouse at Malarrif, taken from the visitor centre. Image - Paul Berry
Guillemots at Londrangar. Image - Allison Berry
Kittiwakes at Londrangar. Image - Allison Berry
Djupasandur black sand beach. Image - Allison Berry
Djupasandur beach was a particular highlight for me on the journey around Snaefellsnes. A path called Nautastigur ('The Path of the Bull') leads from the car park across a small lava field and then through an atmospheric canyon, straight out of 'Lord of the Rings', with crazy rock formations and a highly photogenic arch called Gatklettur. Two lagoons (formerly used to provide water for bulk, hence the name of the path) are passed along the way, and the name Djupasandur translates as 'deep lagoon sand'. The path eventually reaches the beach, where there is a line of four large basalt boulders resting on the black sand. These are the famous 'lifting stones', used in days of old to test the strength of potential fishermen. The smallest stone weighs 23 kgs and is known as 'amlodi' or 'weakling', while the next heaviest at 54 kgs is known as 'halfsterkur' or 'half strength'. The third boulder is 'halfdraettingur' or 'strong enough' (100 kgs), while the fourth and heaviest of all is 'fullsterkur' or 'full strength', and weighs a massive 154 kgs. There was once a thriving fishing community here, and to qualify as a member of a fishing crew, a candidate is expected to lift the 'strong enough' boulder onto a ledge at hip-height. I just about managed to get the 'weakling' rock off the ground, so no fishing for me.
Atmospheric pathway leading to Djupasandur beach. Image - Paul Berry
Arch at Djupasandur. Image - Allison Berry
Testing my abilities as a fisherman. Image - Allison Berry
Djupalon pearls. Image - Regina Hronn
Djupalonsandur is known as the 'Black Lava Pearl Beach' due to the areas of small glossy grey-black pebbles (Djupalon Pearls) that occur along the shore. A huge distinctive chunk of lava rock standing on the beach is called 'Songklettur' - 'the singing rock'. It is rusty red with iron stain, and said to be a church of the elves. There is also a tall rugged stack close to the low side mark called 'Kerling' or 'Troll Woman' - supposedly a troll turned to stone when caught out in daylight, carrying a load of fish on her back. The male version 'Karl' is located further to the east, and cannot be seen from Djupalonsandur. The beach is strewn with the twisted and rusting metal remnants from the Grimsby trawler Epine (GY7) that was wrecked here in 1948. Although this might seem a blight on the landscape, it has been left in situ as a memorial to the fourteen sailors who perished in the tragedy. Several walking paths lead away from Djupalonsandur, including one that makes the short journey along the coast to another black sand beach at Dritvik. This was formerly the busiest fishing community in Iceland, with up to 600 workers serving between 40 and 60 working vessels. The village was active from the 13th century up to the time of its decline some 600 years later, but all that's left today are some ruined buildings.
'Kerling' stack at Djupasandur. Image - Allison Berry
Songklettur rock at Djupasandur. Image - Paul Berry
Rounding the tip of the peninsula, Saxholl appears at the R574 roadside. A set of 400 metal steps allow for an easy climb to the top of this extinct 109 metre crater, formed during an eruption that took place between three and four thousand years ago. At the top of the steps, a metal platform offers a clear view into the crater, and over the surrounding lava field in the distance can be seen sister craters created in a row during the same eruption.
Saxholl crater. image - Paul Berry
Steps leading up to the crater rim at Saxholl. Image – Paul Berry
Crater rim at Saxholl. Image – Paul Berry
As the road reaches the north west tip of the peninsula, it passes through Hellisandur, another small fishing village, but one that has embraced the economic boost offered by modern tourism. It acts as a gateway to the Snaefellsnes National Park, and the heritage of the village is well-portrayed in the village's Maritime Museum. The red and white Ingjaldsholl church claims to be the oldest cemented church in the world, and it is said that before Columbus sailed west to find America, he spent a winter here. There is a large painting by Ace Granz inside the church that depicts Columbus in Iceland. The village is becoming increasingly famous as the street art capital of Iceland, with many buildings decorated with wonderful urban art work.
Hellisandur street art. Image – thefreezerhostel.com
Hellisandur street art. Image – thefreezerhostel.com
Hellisandur street art. Image – geocaching.com
Hellisandur street art. Image – trip advisor
Just outside of Hellisandur, the road passes a huge radio mast, once claimed to be the highest built structure in Europe. Between Hellisandur and the neighbouring small community of Rif is one of largest Arctic Tern breeding areas in Iceland, and there are regular warning signs along the road to alert passing traffic. Just past Rif is found the Svodufoss waterfall. Only 10 metres in height, and not widely known or visited, it looked to me rather like a mini version of the celebrated Skogafoss, found on the south coast. A convenient car park gets you close to the falls, and a 20 minute stroll along a path leads right up to the falls.
Svodufoss - a mini version of Skogafoss. Image - Regina Hronn
Olafsvik (population 1,200) is a delightful small town on the north coast. It claims to be Iceland's oldest established trading town (receiving a charter in 1687), and in the 17th and 18th centuries vessels sailed between here and Denmark. Today, it is the most productive fishing settlement on peninsula, with a busy harbour area. The church is an interesting modern architectural design, and I was surprised to learn that it was consecrated as far back as 1967.
Olafsvik rainbow road leading to the church. Image - Paul Berry
Olafsvik modern church. Image - Paul Berry
Kissing seat at Olafsvik. Image - Paul Berry
Grundarfiordur is the next settlement along the north coast road. Although a thriving fishing village for many years, it is probably best known for its location next to the 463 metre Kirkufell mountain, or 'Church Mountain', the most photographed mountain in the country. The imposing mountain looks quite different if viewed from different angles, and a path offers a steep route to the top, although the climb takes a couple of hours and is steep and dangerous in parts. Kirkufell featured in the famous 'Game of Thrones' series back in the day. The classic photo (see below) is usually taken with Kirkufoss waterfalls in the foreground and the mountain as a backdrop. Although Kirkufell is impressive, I honestly think the waterfalls are worthy of a visit in their own right.
The classic view of Kirkufell. Image - Paul Berry
Kirkufell from the village of Grundarfiordur. Image - Paul Berry
Grundarfiordur church with Kirkufell in the background. Image - Paul Berry
Kirkufoss waterfalls - worth a visit in their own right. Image - Paul Berry
Beserkerhraun lava field. Image - Shutterstock
Between Grundarfiordur and the next town Stykkisholmur, the road passes through the 3-4,000 years old Beserkerhraun lava field, famous for its soft moss covered rocks interspersed between crazy jagged lava pillars. The name of the lava field comes from the 10th century Eyrbyggja Saga, where two Norse 'Beserkers' were slain by their master. Beserkers lived as hired mercenary thugs in Viking times, formidable warriors who could go into a state of trance that made them impervious to wounding. The saga tells how one of the Beserkers fell in love with the daughter of the farmer who had hired the two men as workers. When he asked for the daughter's hand in marriage in 982 AD, the farmer was not happy, and decided to set the Beserker an impossible task of clearing a road through the lava field so he did not have to travel all the way around it to visit his brother's farm. The Beserker was assisted by his companion, and completed the task - only for the farmer to kill the two men to prevent the marriage. The path through the lava (Beserkjagata) field still exists today, and the burial mounds for two large men are said to be located next to the R558 road. Lava from four prominent craters are visible from lava field in an east west row - Raudkula, Kothraunskula, Smahraunskula & Grakula.
Stkkisholmur harbour with Sugandisey in the background. Image - Paul Berry
Stykkisholmur is a fishing village with a population of 1,100, located on a promontory overlooking Breidarfjordur, which contains a multitude of scattered islets and skerries. The harbour was built by Danish and Norwegian merchants, and has been in use since the Middle Ages. Apart from the fishing boats, ferries run from here to the Western Fiords and numerous offshore islands, while numerous tourist vessels make visits to view puffin colonies. The harbour is protected from wind and waves by a huge basalt island called Sugandisey, topped with its own lighthouse relocated here in 1948. The village has a number of interesting old wooden buildings, making a sharp contrast to the very modern church (Stykkisholmskirkja) that resembles a whale vertebrae. It also boasts a fascinating art installation called the 'Library of Water' (Vatnasafin). It consists of 24 glass columns of water taken from different glaciers across Iceland.
Stykkisholmur harbour. Image - Paul Berry
Basalt cliffs of Sugandisey, Stykkisholmur. Image - Allison Berry
Stykkisholmur church. Image - Paul Berry
The Library of Water, Stykkisholmur. Image - Paul Berry
Helgafell. Image - Regina Hronn
Close to the town is Helgafell, a small peak standing at 73 m (240 ft). It is said that if it is climbed for first time, 3 wishes you make will come true - but only if you don't look back or speak on the way up! you then need to make your wishes facing east, and not tell anyone what you wished for. Also, only benevolent wishes will be granted.
Leaving Snaefellsnes offers a number of options. Rather than return directly to Reykjavik, a detour could be made around Hvallfiordur to visit Glymur waterfall, at 200 metres, the second highest in Iceland (Mosarfoss in Vatnajokull being the highest). Alternatively, visits could be made to some of the sites on the 'Silver Circle' route, perhaps Deildartunghver (the largest area of hot springs in Europe), Hraunafoss and Barnafoss waterfalls, or Langjokull glacier. Always plenty to see and do in this wonderful country.
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