devongeography posted: " In my role as Field Studies Tutor for Rayburn Tours in Iceland, I sometimes get a few hours free while waiting for a group to arrive at the airport. I like to use this time to explore a new location if I can. On one of my recent trips back in the spring" Devon Geography
In my role as Field Studies Tutor for Rayburn Tours in Iceland, I sometimes get a few hours free while waiting for a group to arrive at the airport. I like to use this time to explore a new location if I can. On one of my recent trips back in the spring, I had an opportunity to explore the town of Keflavik.
Keflavik (which translates as 'Driftwood Bay') was in 1995 combined with the town of Njardvik and the village of Hafnir to form the municipal area known as Reykjanesbaer, with a combined population of 15,500, making it the fifth largest town in the country.
Keflavik area. Map - Google Earth
Keflavik has a firm connection with the nearby airport, where the vast majority of visitors to Iceland arrive. Built by the Americans during the Second World War, it was originally known as Keflavik Iceland Naval Air Station. It was taken over by NATO in 1951, an important strategic location at the head of the North Atlantic. In 2006, it became a civil airport, with the main terminal named after famous Icelandic explorer Leifur Ericsson, who landed on the American mainland some 500 years before Christopher Columbus.
Keflavik International Airport. Map - Google Earth
The airport still operates a significant influence on the town, with many of the old American barracks having been converted into warehouses and housing, and many of the residents relying on the airport for employment.
Converted American barracks, Asbru, Keflavik. Image - iav.is
Keflavik was founded in the sixteenth century by Scottish entrepreneurs and engineers, and has has its own harbour. Fishing and fish processing are important industries, as is tourism, with many visitors finding convenient accommodation in the town for the nearby airport. Major growth industries in the town include data processing (making use of the cheap electricity available in Iceland), green energy developments, and health and wellness businesses.
Verne Global data processing, Keflavik. Image - eandt.theiet.org
Keflavik harbour. Image - Paul Berry
When I arrived in the town, I headed straight for the seafront and the Grof marina. The busy harbour was full of working boats, and guarding the entrance was the Giantess' Cave. The black cave of the Giantess was opened on the 6th September 2008, during the town 'Night of Lights' festival. On that day, the Giantess ('Skessan' in Icelandic) moved from her mountain into her new home. She is a character from 'Sigga and the Giantess' by Icelandic author Herdis Egilsdottir from Husavik, in the north of the country. This is a set of 16 children's , the last of which describes her migration from the mountain into her Keflavik cave. Other books tell how Sigga rescued villagers from a fire, how she got caught in fishing nets and thought to be a whale, how she once brought a polar bear cub back to her cave, and how she rescued some fishermen in a storm. After this, she was so cold, she had to be taken to the Blue Lagoon so she could be warmed up.
Giantess' Cave, Keflavik harbour. Image - Paul Berry
The cave itself is 150 square metres in size, and contains a giant bed and a giant chair. The Giantess is over 5 metres tall, and sits in a rocking chair in the kitchen. She can be viewed through the kitchen door, and be seen and heard to breathe, burp and even fart at times. There is a postbox in the cave for children to send messages to the kind Giantess.
Giganta's Cave. Image - Paul Berry
The Giantess. Image - Paul Berry
Inside the cave. Image - Paul Berry
Keflavik harbour with Giantess' cave top left. Image - Paul Berry
Dominating the sea front is the impressive 'anchor boat' sculpture, created by Asmundur Sveinnson in 1978 as a memorial to those lost at sea. It stands in its own small memorial garden, and from the side, looks like a Viking ship.
Directly in front of the anchor, and part of the long sea wall is the interesting stone sculptures of two huge rock ogres. These are the two giants Stein and Sleggia (Bolder and Sledgehammer), and steps run to gap between them, an idea of local school children who had lost their view of open water when the sea wall was built.
Stein and Sleggia. Image - Paul Berry
Between the sculptures and the harbour is a large white fishing boat, seemingly grounded on the shore. The 40 ton Baldur KE97 - nicknamed 'Guillmolinn', or 'Golden Nugget', was the first fishing boat in Iceland to be designed with the bridge on front deck. It was built in Sweden and delivered to the Baldur company in Keflavik in 1961. The boat was the first in the country to utilise stern trawling and steel wire instead of rope when fishing with seine nets. After its retirement, KE97 was placed on display on the rocks along with a monument telling of its history.
KE97. Image - Paul Berry
Close to the marina is the Duus Museum, an arts and culture centre. Formerly the site of an information centre for the Reykjanes Geo Park, it is currently under redevelopment, and now houses a series of exhibition halls, as well as a nice cafe.
Keflavik has strong connections to the music industry, probably dating back to the days when American forces boosted the local population. It is sometimes called 'Beatles Town' or 'Liverpool of the North'. The Icelandic Museum of Rock and Roll can be found in the the town, which tells the story of pop and rock music in the country, including reference to Icelandic music icons Bjork, Sigur Ros, and Of Monsters and Men. There is a karaoke booth, an electronic drum kit and guitars to use, and an app tour to follow.
Rock and Roll Museum. Image - reykjanes.is
Elsewhere in the town, there are other locations worthy of a visit. I always enjoy unplanned exploration in a new place, wandering like a 'Geo Dog', and taking a good sniff at everything. The town swimming pool is called 'Waterworld', and boasts a 50 metre indoor pool, and a 25 metre outdoor pool, both naturally heated like all pools in Iceland. There are also hot tubs and water slides to enjoy. The Kokulist Breakfast Bakery, just up the road from the Rock and Roll Museum, is rammed full of tasty pastries baked fresh every day, including delightful cinnamon rolls. The fishing pier is a quiet and tranquil spot to spend a few moments away from the traffic and noise of the town.
I got the feeling the residents of the town didn't take themselves too seriously, and there was some lovely artwork that brought a smile to my face.
A nod to the military history of Keflavik airport. Image - Paul Berry
Litter bin on the seafront. Image - Paul Berry
Street art, Keflavik. Image - Paul Berry
Reindeer garden sculpture. Image - Paul Berry
I enjoyed exploring Keflavik, and hope to spend a little more time there during future trips to Iceland.
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