devongeography posted: " Heading to Thorsmork in Winter. Image - Paul Berry Although I never tire of visiting the popular tourist spots in Iceland, I always enjoy exploring new locations. Earlier this spring, I was fortunate enough to make my first visit to the Thorsmork ar" Devon Geography
Heading to Thorsmork in Winter. Image - Paul Berry
Thorsmork in summer. Image - anywhereweroam.com
Although I never tire of visiting the popular tourist spots in Iceland, I always enjoy exploring new locations. Earlier this spring, I was fortunate enough to make my first visit to the Thorsmork area in South Iceland. This isolated wilderness is a little off the usual tourist route, and is only really accessible with off-road vehicles.
You need the right vehicle! Image - anywhereweroam.com
Thorsmork, which translates as 'Thor's Forest' or 'Thor's Valley', is the name given to the remote area in south Iceland where three valleys converge into a dead-end between three ice caps - Tindfjalljokull, Eyjafjallajokull, and Myrdalsjokull. The nature reserve of Thorsmork contains birch forest and thermal springs, and is a popular location for hiking and horse riding. It also attracts thousands of tourists each year who come to enjoy the peace and tranquility of this wonderful area.
Thorsmork Summer Bus
In the brief summer, a mountain bus service links the main ring road with the three camp areas located in Thorsmork. The bus can be picked up from Reykjavik (a four hour trip), or from Hvollsvollur – a trip of an hour and a half. The bus journey between Volcano Huts and Langidalur Camp can take 45 minutes to an hour because the River Krossa has to be forded twice. It is actually quicker to walk between the two camps. At this time of the year, a moveable pedestrian bridge allows access over the Krossa, meaning a thirty-minute walk will connect Langidalur to Basar Huts.
Passenger bridge to aid river crossings. Image - Paul Berry
For the rest of the year, a robust all-terrain vehicle is needed to deal with the difficult terrain, and a guide is highly recommended. A popular tourist excursion involves a six-hour trip to Thorsmork, using Icelandic 'Super Jeeps.' These are specially modified vehicles with massive wheels designed to navigate the tough conditions. In my role as field studies tutor for Rayburn Tours, I escorted a school group on a trip organised by 'South Coast Adventures', an excellent company based in the village of Hvollsvollur. It was fascinating admiring the skill of the drivers, as they selected their places to cross the rivers, chose the correct angle of approach, and selected the appropriate speed to navigate the glacial waters.
Super jeep River Crossing. Image - South Coast AdventureSuper jeep crossing river. Image - Paul Berry
Super Jeeps make easy work of the unmetalled tracks, sandy and rocky terrain, and the river crossings - sometimes through deep, fast-flowing glacier melt torrents that block the way into the valley. The pattern of drainage in this area changes with the seasons, but the three main rivers to conquer are the Krossa, the Thronga, and the Markarfjlot.
Thorsmork river crossing. Image - epiciceland.net
The Markarfjlot has its source in the glacial waters flowing from Eyjafjallajokull and Myrdalsjokull, and runs for some 100 kilometres (60 miles), draining into the Atlantic Ocean. The wide channel may not look very threatening today, but this river carried water from the jokulhlups (glacial floods) that followed the Eyjafjallajokull eruption in 2010. The strength of glacial floods in the Markarfjlot has been strong enough at times in the past to wash away the bridge carrying the main road along the south coast. Under normal conditions, the river has less energy, and there is large scale deposition, causing the river to wander across its flood plain and regularly change course. Braiding of the channel is clearly evident, as the river meanders around numerous eyots or temporary islands.
Image - Paul Berry
Thorsmork Mountain Huts
Volcano Huts camp, Thorsmork. Image - Paul Berry
The route into the hidden valley passes a number of mountain huts, quiet through most of the year, but in great demand during June, July and August. The Langidalur and Volcano Huts Camps are located north of the Krossa river, while the Basar site is found to the south. Volcano Huts Camp is in Husadalur, and includes glamping tents, a camp site, cottages, cabins and dormitory rooms. It is always booked up to capacity in the summer months, so reservations need to be made well in advance. There is also a restaurant on site open throughout the day. When I visited in winter, I was lucky enough to get some great views of Arctic Foxes who were visiting the camp on the lookout for food scraps. They were totally wild, but came close enough for some decent photographs. One was in white winter colouring, while another was of the 'blue' variety – making quite a contrast.
Arctic Fox near Volcano Huts Camp. Image - Paul BerryArctic Fox in 'blue' morph phase. near Volcano Huts Camp. Image - Paul Berry
Langidalur Camp sits at the edge of the Krossa River, and consists of a hut on two floors sleeping up to 75 people, a dining hall, barbeque area, and camping space.
Basar Camp, Thorsmork. Image - Paul Berry
Basar huts can accommodate up to 83 people, with extra space for camping. It is sited on the opposite side of the river to many of the trailheads, so use of a moveable bridge is needed if you wish to do a lot of hiking.
Basar Camp. Image - Paul Berry
Thorsmork Highlights
Highlights of an excursion into Thorsmork include visits to Nathusagil Waterfall, Stakkholtsgja Canyon and the Gigjokull glacier.
Nathusagil Waterfall
Nauthusagil Waterfall. image - Arctic Adventures
This site is located right next to the 249 road, and can be accessed even with a 2wd car in summer. A paved path leads from the small parking area along a stream, and heads towards (not yet to be seen) hidden canyon. The path soon dwindles away, and you need to stone hop through the stream to continue. Many visitors stop when they get into the steep-sided canyon, but to get to the waterfall, a bit of adventure is needed, clambering over two or three metres of boulders with the help of a fixed chain.
Stakkholtsgja Canyon
Stakkholtsgja Canyon. Image – Paul Berry
Stakkholtsgja Canyon looking back out. Image – Paul Berry
Stakkholtsgja Sign. Image – Paul Berry
Stakkholtsgja canyon. Image – Paul Berry
Stakkholtsgja Waterfall. Image - epiciceland.net
Stakkholtsgja is a two kilometre canyon carved between huge moss-covered rock formations at each side. Several river crossings are required to explore the full extent of the canyon, either picking your way over stepping stones, or removing your socks and boots and paddling through the bracingly cold water. A secret waterfall can be discovered at the head of the canyon, used in the filming of 'Game of Thrones'. It takes around an hour to walk to Stakkholtsgja from Basar Huts, and then another hour and a half to reach the end of the canyon. It is also possible to reach this location from Langidalur, via the moveable bridge over the river Krossa. Lots of visitors get dropped off at the canyon entrance to start their walk from there.
Gigjokull
Gigjokull (or 'Crater Glacier') is a small outlet glacier extending from the Eyjafjallajokull ice cap. This steep tongue of ice measures some 7.5 km long, and has a fascinating history of advancement and retreat, as shown in the series of photographs below. The ice displays whites, blues and blacks in an intriguing scheme of colours. A 40 metre-deep pro-glacial lagoon once existed at the head of the glacier, called Lake Jokullon.
Gigjokull. Image - Paul BerryGigjokull in 2014. Image - Jalen Plut
Gigjokull 2018. Image - Jalen Plut
Gigjokull 2021. Image - Jalen Plut
Thorsmork Hikes
Trail Signpost. Image - Paul Berry
Some of the best hikes in Iceland are to be found in Thorsmork, and many weeks could be spent exploring the different trails.
View from top of Valahnukur. Image - epiciceland.net
This is the shortest hike available, but one of the best. It offers tremendous views of the valley from the 465 metre peak of Mount Valahnukur, looking both ways down the Krossa valley. There is also a great view of the deep canyon cut by the Hvanna River. He 360- degree view from the peak takes in (on a clear day) all three ice caps. The trail starts from the Volcano Huts Camp, and proceeds straight up Mount Valahnukur with steps, and then runs down around the other side to Langidalur before returning to the start. It is a relatively easy path, well-marked throughout with white posts, running for some 2.5 miles (4.3 kilometres), and should take around an hour and forty-five minutes to complete. Alternatively, it can be approached from Langidalur Camp.
Merkurrani Plateau Hike
The route starts from the Volcano Huts Camp, and is an easy route offering wonderful views of the Krossa river from the top of the plateau before descending to the Markarfjlot river. It follows white posts towards Mount Valahnukor, but just before the summit turns right to follow green posts across the plateau. It totals 2.5 miles (4.25 kilometres) in distance, and takes around an hour and forty five minutes to complete.
Fimmvorduhals Trail
Fimmvorduhals trail Map. Image - Google Maps
This is one of Iceland's most famous walks, and runs from Skogafoss waterfall over the ridge between Eyjafjallajokull and Myrdalsjokull before descending into Thorsmork. It covers 15.5 miles (25 kilometres) and takes between eight and ten hours to complete. It is possible to break this challenging walk into two sections by spending the night at Baldvinsskali Hut which accommodates sixteen people (reservations needed in advance).
Tindfjall Circuit
Tindfjall route. image - anywhereweroam.com
This is a more challenging route that starts from the Langidalur Camp. It runs along the north edge of the Krossa valley, and when it reaches Slyppugil Hut, it turns left to head up the Slyppugil Valley. The trail slowly rises before bending right, following the edge of the precipitous canyon with Tindfjall mountain on the other side. After exiting the canyon, a viewpoint is reached before the path drops steeply down to the valley floor before following the River Krossa back to Langidalur Camp.The trail is marked by orange posts, and is 5.25 miles (9 kilometres) in length, taking around four and a half hours to complete as it has a serious ascent and the path is tricky in places.
Rjupnafell Hike
This is a challenging extension to the Tindfjall Circuit and involves a zig-zag ascent of the 964 metre peak of Rjupnafell. Not to be attempted in cloudy or windy conditions, the hike adds a good three to four hours to the Tindfjall Circuit route.
Thorsmork Highlights Hike
This is a circular hike in the Husadalur Valley, that starts from Volcano Huts Camp and heads through birch forest up to the foothills of the Tindfjall mountains. It then ascends to the Slyppugil Ridge to offer fine views of the Slyppugil Canyon before returning through the trees down to the Langidalur Camp.It is marked by red posts, and stretches for 5.25 miles (9 kilometres), taking three hours and fifteen minutes to complete.
Thorsmork in summer. Image - Arctic Adventures
Laugavegur Trail
This is one of the most famous and most popular of Icelandic hikes, chosen as one of the '20 Best Hikes in the World' by National Geographic. It covers 34 miles (55 kilometres), and spans three days while it makes the crossing over the highlands from Landmannalaugar into Thorsmork. The journey covers outstanding scenery including lava fields, colourful rhyolite mountains, canyons, glaciers, and active volcanoes. There are also hot springs along the way to sooth aching limbs.
Leaving Thorsmork
On leaving Thorsmork, it is always worth spending some time at the wonderful Seljalandfoss waterfall, one of the most popular tourist locations on the south coast. Here, the river Seljalandsa tumbles 60 metres over the old cliffline, created due to isostatic uplift of the land surface following the removal of Iceland's ice cover of the last ice age. This uplift still continues today - at a rate of around 2 cm a year - leaving the ancient sea cliff some 20 metres above the present day level of the sea.
Seljalandfoss. Image - Paul BerrySeljalandfoss - inside looking out. Image - Paul Berry
One interesting feature of Seljalandfoss is the path that allows visitors to walk behind the tumbling waters, and get an unusual view looking out from behind the waterfall. Behind the wall of water, it is easy to understand the geology of this old cliffline. Clear horizontal layers of basalt interspersed with layers of breccia (angular fragments of rock held together by mineral cement) are easy to identify, with the more resistant basalt layers protruding from the cliff face, while the less resistant breccia layers are eroded faster by the running water. The path runs beneath some huge basalt overhangs, making the walk behind the waterfall particularly impressive.
Just a few hundred metres along the clifflike is the less-visited but equally impressive Gljufrabrui waterfall (sometimes known as Gljufarfoss). The name translates as 'Dweller in the Gorge' - Gljufra meaning gorge, and bui meaning inhabitant. Here, the Gljufra river tumbles 131 feet in a hidden waterfall, not visible from the main path. Access is only possible through a narrow gap in the rock face, and usually results in wet feet! Once through the gap, a large boulder called Franskanef ('French Nose') blocks the way to the waterfall, but provides an excellent platform for photographs.
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