Today I would like to write about biomimetic peptides in cosmetology and their effect on the skin. What is actually a peptide? Simply saying peptides are part of the proteins. They consist of different amino acids and can be divided into oligopeptides (chain of 2 – 10 amino acids) and polypeptides (chain of 11 – 100 amino acids). Due to their small size, they can be transported into deep layers of the skin, where they can bind specific receptors on cell surface and stimulate it to produce structural proteins, like collagen and elastin. In our body we can find multiple peptides, which regulate a variety of physiological processes, like immunity, growth and defence. Knowing their functions, scientists synthetized biotechnologically oligopeptides, which mimic action of cellular growth factors and cytokines (signalling proteins released by different cells). Thanks to development of science, different peptides in cosmetics are able to stimulate different cells to proliferate, produce different molecules (hyaluronic acid, collagen), protect DNA, decrease production of melanin, transport different molecules into deep layers of the skin (copper), stimulate action of different enzymes, inhibit neurotransmitters (inhibition of acetylcholine release can influence tension of muscle leading to Botox-like effects).

On the market there are more and more cosmetics, which except having different active substances like vitamins, contain oligopeptides, which additionally influence different processes in the skin and lead to it's better appearance. Some peptides instead of physiological amino acid sequence, consist of modified amino acid chain, what can improve already existing physiological function. Such peptides additionally to its function on different cells, can easier travel through epidermis, can be much more stable or better interact with cellular receptors.

There is a variety of different peptides used in cosmetology and for sure one could write a book wanting to describe all of them. Here I would like to show you and describe just few of them.

Oligopeptide-68

This is pretty popular peptide used to fight hyperpigmentation. It is ingredient of bleaching products. It inhibits action of transcription factor MITF involved in melanocyte differentiation. It reduces tyrosinase activity (tyrosinase is a key enzyme, which is involved in melanin production) and slows down production of skin pigments. It has been shown, that peptides involved in reduction of melanogenesis, are much more efficient then some chemical tyrosinase inhibitors, like kojic acid. If you are looking for another peptide involved in inhibition of melanogenesis, you can try products containing tripeptide-30.

Tripeptide-41

This is very interesting peptide involved in lipolysis. It promotes biosynthesis of TNFalpha, an important cytokine, which is capable to trigger lipolysis. Additionally, it triggers production of another lipolytic factor- cAMP. cAMP is known to be involved in hydrolysis of lipids.

Argireline

This is my number one among biomimetic peptides! It belongs to the group of peptides inhibiting neurotransmitters. It consists of a very short amino acid sequence: Glu-Glu-Met-Gln-Arg-Arg and is known as acetyl hexapeptide-3, or acetyl hexapeptide-8. It's action is similar to botulinum toxin and therefor is called natural BOTOX. It inhibits formation of acetylcholine in the skin and leads to relaxation of the muscles followed by disappearance of soft lines and wrinkles. In different trials it has been shown that Argireline can lead to 59-71% reduction of wrinkle depth and 41-50% reduction of wrinkle size when compared to placebo group. Similar action to Argireline has Venistryl, which is a commertial name of acetyl-tripeptide-30 citrulline and pentapeptide-18.

Oligopeptide-10

This one is very helpful while fighting acne. It belongs to peptides having antimicrobial activity. A very important is the fact, that Oligopeptide-10 acts specific against Cutibacterium acnes, not killing other bacteria living on the skin surface. Already after 2 hours significantly reduces amount of bacteria. It's action has been compared to clindamycin, a common antibiotic used against Cutibacterium acnes and Staphyllococcus aureus MRSA.

Cu-palmitoyl hexapeptide-14

This is preety interesting peptide as well. Due to it's structure (it contains palmitic acid) it can easily travel through the skin into very deep layers, where it acts on fibroblasts and stimulate collagen and elastin biosynthesis, it stimulates fibroblasts to proliferate (divide) and inhibits MMPs (metalloproteinases- enzymes involved in collagen and elastin degradation). It has been shown to improve skin texture and it's function and efficacy can be compared to one of retinol.

Matrixyl (Palmitoyl pentapeptide-3)

Another lipophil peptide containing palmitic acid, what makes it to easily pass epidermis. Similarly to copper palmitoyl hexapeptide-14 it is involved in stimulation of collagen biosynthesis in fibroblasts. It reduces appearance of wrinkles and fine lines. This one you can find as a 10% solution in serum from The Ordinary.

Another peptides, which actually are worth to look for are:

  • involved in collagen biosynthesis palmitoyl tripeptide-28
  • involved in collagen protection and MMPs inhibition acetyl hexapeptide-20
  • involved in anti-inflammatory reactions tetrapeptide-14
  • accelerating cellular repair and having anti-aging properties- cyclopeptide-5

On the marked you will find many companies, which produce cosmetics with biomimetic peptides. It is important to check what each peptide does and what effect can we achieve while applying it on the skin. The best are products with multiple peptides influencing different mechanisms and different cells in the skin. Remember, that some of them will act shortly (Argireline). In this case you can achieve good results in a very short time, however they will not last long. Another peptides by stimulation of fibroblasts will give you results lasting much longer, however you will have to wait a bit to see them.

Here you have some interesting companies and products containing different biomimetic peptides, which you may like:

The Ordinary Argireline 10% Solution
The Ordinary Matrixyl 10% + HA
The Ordinary Buffet + Copper Peptides 1%

Lovely Cosmetics by Italian Beauty (different cosmetics containing multiple anti-inflammatory and anti-aging peptides)

Sesderma Factor G Renew Series

RAU Argireline Intensive Lifting Serum 30 ml
Dermida Argireline + Peptide Booster (for professionals)

BasicLab serum with 15% trehalose, SNAP peptide and low molecular weight hyaluronic acid

Hyalax Argireline (for professionals)

Jeunesse Instantly Ageless

Arkadiusz

To read:

Lima T.N., Moraes C.A.P., Bioactive peptides: applications and relevance for cosmeceuticals. Cosmetics, 2018

Wang Y et al., The anti-aging efficacy of Argireline. J. Cosmet. Laser Ther. 2013